A 12-day French road trip: castles, the Dordogne and Bordeaux

In July 2019 we spent twelve days on the road in France, starting with a castle town in the Loire region, drifting south to the Dordogne, and ending in Bordeaux with a glass of wine in our hands. We posted it day by day in our Instagram stories, so this guide follows the same order. If you like trips where the route is half the fun, it is a good template, and you can easily shorten it to a week. For more drives like this, see our favourite European road trips.

How we did it: 12 days, a loose plan

Our stories were captioned “French roadtrip, day 1” through “day 12”, and that is exactly how it felt: one new place a day, with a few swim stops in between. We did not follow a strict script. On day 6 the story simply says “Good morning, moving on to Bergerac today”, and on day 10 “leaving the mountains, next: Bordeaux”. That loose rhythm is the best thing about a French road trip. The country is full of small towns where a lunch stop turns into an afternoon.

Top stops in detail

Vendôme (day 1)

We opened the trip in Vendôme, a small town built around the Loir river, with old stone bridges, little canals and the ruins of a castle on the hill above. It is far enough from Belgium that you will want a long driving day to get there, and calm enough that you can wind down the moment you park. Go for an evening walk along the water and you have already had your first French holiday moment.

The castle that impressed us most (day 2)

On day 2 we posted a story that says “most impressive castle I’ve ever seen”, and we still stand by it. The Loire valley is the castle region of France, with famous names such as Chambord and Chenonceau within easy reach of Vendôme. If you only visit one, book it ahead for summer weekends and arrive early. Big châteaux fill up fast from late morning, and the gardens are the best part when the light is soft.

Small villages and swim spots (days 3 to 5)

Days 3 to 5 were about cute villages, long views and a swim spot of the day. This is where a car pays off: you can follow a river, stop where there is a pebble beach or a quiet bend and jump in. Pack a towel, water shoes and a picnic, and keep one afternoon completely free.

Bergerac and the Dordogne (days 6 and 7)

On day 6 we drove on to Bergerac, a pleasant riverside town with a half-timbered old centre and its own wine region. We sipped wine, of course. The next day we took a boat trip on the Dordogne. The river is lined with cliffs, castles and golden-stone villages, and the traditional flat-bottomed boats are a relaxed way to see them. Beynac, La Roque-Gageac and Sarlat are the names you will see on every list for this area, and all of them are within a short drive of each other.

The long drive south and the mountain train (days 8 and 9)

Day 8 was “ready for the long ride”, and the landscape changed quickly: the story from that afternoon says the view was already so different. We met a friendly dog in a mountain village, then on day 9 started with pancakes and took a train to the top of a mountain. Rack railways and small mountain trains exist in several parts of the south-west, so check what runs near your route and whether you need to reserve. Back at sea level we ended the day on a beach, which is a nice reminder of how varied France is within a single day.

Bordeaux (days 10 and 11)

We drove out of the mountains on day 10 and arrived in Bordeaux on day 11, which we spent on foot. The old centre is compact, with honey-coloured streets and big squares, and the riverfront is great for an evening stroll. Our story for that evening just says “Let’s taste wine!”, and a tasting is the obvious thing to do here. The city also has a wine museum, the Cité du Vin, and the famous wine village of Saint-Émilion is a short drive away. Day 12 was the drive home.

A suggested itinerary

• Days 1 and 2: Vendôme and the Loire castles.
• Days 3 to 5: villages, swimming and slow mornings on the way south.
• Days 6 and 7: Bergerac and a boat trip on the Dordogne.
• Days 8 and 9: a long drive towards the mountains, a mountain train and the beach.
• Days 10 and 11: Bordeaux and a wine tasting.
• Day 12: the drive back.

With more time, add Sarlat and Saint-Émilion, or spend an extra night in the Dordogne. With less, drop the mountains and go Loire, Dordogne, Bordeaux and home.

Where to stay

Because this is a road trip, we kept moving and never stayed long in one place. Choose small towns over big roads: Vendôme, the area around Bergerac and the old centre of Bordeaux are all good bases, with parking easier on the edges than in the middle. In Bordeaux, staying near the old centre or the river means you can leave the car parked and walk everywhere.

Practical tips

• Book accommodation a few days ahead in July; the Dordogne is busy in summer.
• Expect tolls on the main motorways and fill up before the long stretches.
• Many small restaurants stop serving lunch around two, so eat earlier than you think.
• Keep a swim bag in the car; you will find a spot of the day more than once.
• A paper map or offline map helps in valleys where signal drops.

If you prefer a shorter drive, try the weekend road trips from Belgium or the Normandy highlights. Later we did a much bigger loop through the south, which you can read in our summer road trip through the Côte d’Azur and Provence and the 10 best places to visit in the Provence.

FAQ

How long should a road trip through France take?

We did twelve days and it felt right, with a night or two in each place. A week works if you pick two regions instead of three.

When is the best time for the Dordogne?

June and September are our pick: warm enough to swim, but quieter than July and August.

Do you need to book castles in advance?

For the best-known châteaux in the Loire, yes, especially in summer. Check the official site before you go for current opening times.

Is Bordeaux worth a stop on a road trip?

Yes. It is walkable, the wine tasting options are easy to book, and it makes a great finale before the drive home.

Read also: our Lyon travel guide.